Miata Mailing List: March 1992, Message #14
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   From: (none)
Subject: Replacing rear window (was Questions for all: )
   Date: (none)


> 
> 1) has anyone replaced just the rear window?  or have you just used meguires'
> plastic compund to buff out the scratches?  The previous owner closed the top
> a couple of times when the window was dirty and there is a inch wide scratch
> about 3 inches from the bottom of the window.

I have replaced the rear window, I didn't have much choice after a knife
added some extra ventilation :-(.

Replacing the window is a bit painful if you don't remove the whole roof.
I did manage it but had to forgo repacing two rivets that I simply could not
reach.

To remove the window you need to:

Remove the trim from inside the parcel shelf.

Remove a set of four steel bars that both hold the bottom of the window
and tension the window. These are attached to the car by bolts that are 
anchored to the car body. The window and roof has holes that also pass 
over these bolts.

Remove the bottom of the window from these bolts, Not easy, the roof and window
are riveted together inside a thin plastic gutter. This gutter catches any water 
that makes it past the rubber seals and channels it to the corners behind the
seat belt posts where there is a drain. The gutter is brittle. The rivets need 
removing which is a pain. They are solid aluminium with a washer on top. They can
be cut off with side cutters, take care not to dammage the gutter. The rivets right
next to the seat belt post are the hardest to reach and need a few contortions.

Remove the two brass riviets that hold the roof to the window. These are flimsy
rivets pressed out of brass. The window should be free.

There are a number of black self adhesive foam rectangles on the assembly that
need replacing from a strip of foam that comes with new window.

The new window comes with the vinyl cutout for the window still in place
which helps protect it whilst you put it in.

Attach the roof to the window where the two brass rivets were.

Reassemble the window and roof into the gutter. Replace the rivets. The last
two right next to the seat belt posts I couldn't reach and left out. I don't
think this matters, there is no strain on anything here.

Replace the assembly onto the bolts and replace the steel bars. The bars
interfere with one another when fitted, don't fit and tighten the middle ones
before fitting the outside ones. Gradually tighten all of the nuts to get 
an even stretch of the window. The handbook gives a specific tourque for these
nuts but I can't remember what it is.

Replace the trim etc.

Done.

I could not find proper replacements for the rivets used and ended up fabricating
some. They are specifically designed to fit within small dishes pressed into
the body pressings, but are also designed not to compress the roof/window/gutter
sandwich. Simply using pop rivets will compress this a lot. The brass rivets are
designed to be completly flat. There are no recesses for any protuberences.

If you remove the whole roof you can reach the rivets I had trouble with, but
that is a whole new ball game. 

It took me an afternoon to replace the window.

If it is only scratches, don't bother. Buff away. Scratches are a fact of
life no matter how careful you are. I leave the protective cloth cover
attached to the window all the time now. Since I got a new one with the
new window I also have one permanently stuck to the parcel shelf floor
to protect the other side of the window too. I still have slight scratches
appearing.


							Francis Vaughan